To Tafi del Valle with Ali

Ali was excited to get back to riding especially that he has been almost 6 days since he last rode a bike. His tooth was OK after the shots he got from the dentist and we were heading to towards an interesting place.

Along the way to Tafi del Valle we stopped several times, the reason being is that it was a short distance and and easy ride. We came across interesting colored mountains and then there we saw many tourist stop and went in to find "Garganta del Diablo" the Devil's Throat.

We continued on until we reached the ruins of the Quilmes civilization and took a look walking around the cacti.

The road then started to ascend and get curvy and we finally reached our Hotel in the middle of town. We all went in town later that day and walked around before dinner it is small touristic town with many crafts shops many made from cactus.

It seems that all the restaurants open around sundown which is 8:30 pm here.

Three Nights in Salta

On the first day we had some shopping to do as well as get insurance for the bikes. Salta is a nice small town with one shopping mall and a main square with nice little restaurants. the first night was nice walking around we didn't many people until the next day in the morning when the streets were bustling.

We were told later in the afternoon on the 31st that we should make arrangements for our meals since all restaurants will be closed in preparation for the celebrations of the new year. we went to the closest market and found out we were too late every thing had closed even the local McDonald's.

We took a taxi to the mall where we were yesterday since there is a grocery shop there. and it was closed. We finally went to gas station and has some snacks to eat. We then took a taxi to the Main square and were surprised to find one restaurant open. We had dinner and went to the hotel happy.

Later That night the streets were empty and all we can hear from midnight on were the fire works all over town that lasted on and off for about an hour.

The next day we were face with another problem. Ali's implant tooth was aching really bad and he had to go to the dentist who only gave him a sedative since it was an implant and they were not equiped to handle it. they recommended that we go to Buenos Aires. but we were headed into Santiago Chile so we looked for a clinic there and managed to get an appointment for next Monday the 7th of January. Now we had to be in Santiago on that date.

To Salta

George and Arial picked up Ali at 8 am and we left about 30 minutes later going south to Salta which we wanted to spend a couple of nights there to get transport to Buenos Aires for Ali's bike.

About an hour in to the ride we passed Ali in the car and continued along a nice and  mostly straight road towards Salta. On the way we needed fuel and stopped at a gas station with a line of cars and many bikes waiting for fuel. We asked and found out that the tanker is filling the tanks and that it would take about an hour. Since we had enough fuel to get us to the next gas station we continued on to San Salvador de Jujuy took a break and filled up the bikes. Ali on the other hand arrived there a bit later and stopped to talk to the bikers while on a coffee break.

We then continued along the route the GPS had picked for us along route 9 , which about 50 km before Salta turned into a very narrow road , enough for only one car but with lines and markings for two lanes. Apparently only cars and motorcycles travel this route. it was a nice route through some mountains and rivers with many locations for a day out with the family.

Only 3 meters wide

We got into town and to the Hotel where we were met by Juan Carlos at the reception. Minutes later Ali arrived with George and Arial. He was very optimistic since all of the pain in his wrist was gone , there was only some pain in the arm. So we decided to stay three nights here and ride together to Ushuaia.

Good Bye Bolivia

Ali was met by the truck driver and one of the hotel staff at 6 am to go to the Argentine border. While me and Hussain packed out bikes and waited for breakfast. We had to wait for another half hour for the hotel owner to move their car for us to leave.

We headed straight to the border which was about 4 and a half hours away without stopping. From reading posts of other travelers we know this border crossing was difficult with long lines and a sense of carelessness. It took us 2.5 hours to finish and then me and Hussain went to the hotel that we had reserved yesterday and left Ali with his bike.

The plan was that we go to the hotel, Then I take a Taxi back to the border while Ali gets into the Taxi and I ride his bike to the hotel. Well finding the hotel was a problem since it wasn't as per the location on the website and when we called and had some one talk to them who knew the area for directions , they stated that there were no rooms available and very obtuse about giving directions.

We decided to go to another hotel (Hotel Turismo) where all the travelers were staying. Later that evening Ali with the help of the Hotel staff managed to find George and his son Arial to transport the bike from La Quiaca to Salta. Then right after dinner we saw five travelers from Brazil who were at the Salt flats in Uyuni and had taken the road to La Quiaca stating that it was 200 km of narrow off-road with cars speeding by, and that they had felt it was really dangerous.

What to do ? What to do?

After breakfast we went to the doctor's office exactly at 9 am. He didn't speak English so we had to do with what little Spanish we had plus sign language. The doctor stated that it might be tendinitis and wanted to put Ali's arm in a cast so he doesn't move it. Ali refused if he was going to go home he will need the movement , what little there was to get around and manage.

We left the doctor's office with a fresh bandage and went to discuss what to do. We have already been down this road before we all agreed that if one of us couldn't make it that we would see that his affairs to go home are in order and the other two continue on. But how to get Ali to Kuwait ? we asked the Hotel owner to help in getting us a transport for Ali's bike first it was to Chile for sea freight, then it was to La Paz for Air freight. Then when things were not working out we decided to continue on to Argentina and get another transport to Buenos Aires either in La Quiaca or Salta.

Ali could fly from Salta and I contacted a shipping company in BA who specialize in motorcycle air freight.  We were all set, the truck came at 11 pm to pick the bike up and will be at the Hotel at 6 am to take Ali to the Argentine Border where we will meet him and cross together.

We were planning to go to Uyuni after Potosi but with what happened we decided to continue on into Argentina.

To Potosi

We estimated that the ride might take as much as 8 hours from La Paz to Potosi depending on the condition of the road. and sure enough for the first hour we had traveled only 40 km due to traffic and bad roads. But the road started to get better with less traffic only the occasional light rain.

We stopped at a rest area that looked like a local spa . There were rooms to rent that had water cumming in from the mountain we assume for people to bathe. We then continued on until we reached Challapata , there the road got interesting with very nice scenery.

We saw llama crossing warning signs and decided it was a photo opportunity. We filled up with gas before entering Potosi. I always like it when we reach a hotel early it gives us more time to rest and look around. Unfortunately this wasn't the case. Our hotel was on an incline and we had to wait for a car to get out then put out bikes in. Ali went in first then I , then Ali went to help Hussain bring his bike in and while pushing the bike and I guess with the low oxygen level and low concentration the bike lent towards Ali and instead of letting it fall he held the heavy bike up hurting his wrist in the process.

We put a cold towel (couldn't find ice) on the wrist and sent him to the doctor with the owner of the Hotel. Two hours later he came back all bandaged up, they took an x-ray and bone is fine apparently it is just a sprain. The doctor wanted to see Ali tomorrow at 9 am. and since he cannot ride we are not going any where. So we decided to stay as long as it takes until we decide what to do.

To La Paz

After breakfast we got ready to leave and said our goodbyes to David and Uli who were going towards Chile since Uli has made arrangements to go home from Valparaiso Chile.

We left Puno breathless at an altitude of 3800 meters above sea level and drove along the banks of lake Titicaca for most of the Journey to the Bolivian border. Along the way a Police car flashed their lights at us as many do here we didn't thing anything of it until he made a u turn and followed us speeding in front of us with lights flashing. We stopped and they asked about our papers and insurance which we had gotten at the border when we entered Peru. We know from other postings on the net that some Police regularly check for insurance and some go as far as getting paid to let you go. Since all our papers were in order he let us go stating that we should be careful and monitor our speed especially when crossing populated areas. We thanked him and went on our way towards the border.

Lake Titicaca

The Peru side was fairly easy with many tourist crossing especially German youths on buses. The Bolivian side was a bit different since we had to photocopy most of our documents for them to process our entry.

About 3 km from the border we were stopped by a check point that made us register and pay for what we don't know but since it was only 10 BOB we didn't care. We were told that the roads in Bolivia are not that good and it's true but nothing the GSs can't handle we entered La Paz as it started to rain and reached our hotel in the early afternoon. Tomorrow we head towards Potosi.